Irani Chai and Osmania Biscuit

When in Rome, do as......

In Hyderabad, head to the nearest Irani Café and indulge in a cup of Irani chai (tea) with Osmania Biscuit.  Or biskoot if you want to be even more Hyderabadi.

Hyderabad, India and chai from Iran....it's a long story that goes back to the 1890s when there was a great famine in Persia that caused millions to flee their country.  Their journey on foot lasted over eight months, across the Hindu Kush mountains, crossing two continents before they reached the shores of Mumbai or Bombay as it was then known.  To sustain a living, they served tea from a kettle and later went on to establish little cafes. Some of them moved down south and to the city of Hyderabad and made it their home.  

Irani chai is a sweet concoction of boiled milk and strong brew of tea, both made separately and then mixed just before serving.  Strange, since in Iran, they do not I read, add milk to their cuppa!

The Osmania biscuit has conflicting stories of how it got its name.  Some say, the then erstwhile ruler of Hyderabad, the Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan wanted his biscuits sweet and yet salty and the resultant creation was named after him.  Another story is that the dietitian (dietitians that long ago?) of the Osmania Hospital created the biscuit.  However, that is only of academic interest.

In any case, we were at the Charminar monument on a Sunday morning and stepped into the Irani café a little across the road for a cup of tea.  At 7am, all neighbouring shops still had their shutters down, but the Nimrah Café was abuzz with activity. It was packed, no table was free. No waiting either.  You walked in, order was taken, steaming hot Irani chai and Osmania biscuits appeared in moments.

As you stood and sipped on the sugary sweet tea one wondered why the beverage was served with yet another sweet-salty item.  But again, the thought was momentary.  The tea was nevertheless delicious and the biscuits melted in the mouth.  I was not complaining.  Any thoughts of why I had crept out  of my comfortable bed to go on a guided walk in my own city were dispelled.  I was set to go!